One of the cities I was most looking forward to visiting on this cruise was St. Petersburg. After all, when were we ever going to get to Russia again?
Petersburg was founded in 1703. Emperor Peter the Great (1682-1721) wanted a city equal to Paris and Rome. He hated Moscow and wanted to have a city with access to the Baltic Sea. His Peterhof Palace was built to resemble Versailles. During his reign he also established Russia’s permanent navy.
Our first tour was the Winter Palace and the Gold Room of the Hermitage. Catherine the Great (1762-1796) loved art work and kept adding to her collection. When she needed more room, she simply added another room on to the palace. Today the Hermitage is a very big museum with four main buildings: the Winter Palace, the Small Hermitage, the Old Hermitage and the New Hermitage. To me it got very confusing because our tour guide Olga, kept taking us from one building to the next to avoid the crowds.
The Gold Room was also included in our tour. It was filled with gold jewelry and ornaments there were recovered from burial grounds of czars and the rich dating back to the 7th to 4th centuries BC. (No pictures were allowed.)There were even decorative gold head pieces for the czar’s horses who were also buried there. Can you imagine being a kid playing in the dirt and uncovering a huge gold necklace and bracelet? Magnifying glasses were positioned over some of the pieces to show their fine details. It was amazing to see so many gold pieces in one room.
We went from one room to the next. Frank and were both getting very tired from standing in front of the displays to hear about the room or its painting. After a while, all we looked for was a bench to sit. We got the idea: the czars and their royal courtians lived in very impressive buildings and collected exquisite pieces of art. On our bus ride home, we both welcomed the opportunity to fall asleep.
Short on time, we quickly ate a packed lunch before going through customs a second time for our afternoon tour. On this tour we were to see two churches and then take a canal boat ride on the Neva, Fontaka, and Moyka Rivers. .
St. Isaacs is a Russian Orthodox Church built between 1818 and 1858. There were three previous churches built on this site. The present church, made of marble and built with a huge dome, looked more like the US Capitol building than a church. It was closed during the Soviet Union years and reopened in 1990. The paintings on the walls and ceiling were restored. Except for a small prayer area, it is now a museum to show its elaborately decorated interior. There are no pews; the parishioners stood for services.
The second church we toured was The Church on Spilled Blood. It is built on the sight where Czar Alexander II was assassinated by a suicide bomber in 1881. The church was started soon after Alexander was killed but was not finished until 1907. It was built will lavish fairy tale like images of Russia’s national history and traditions.
The church was looted heavily during the 1917 Russian Revolution. Then during the communist era it was used to store potatoes. The church was damaged in WWII. It was restore in the 1990’s and now today serves mostly as a museum.
The walls are covered with magnificent mosaics that shows how the Russian Orthodoxs continued the artistic traditions of other Christian churches. On the outside of colorful onion shaped domes stand out as unique and distinctly Russian.
A canal boat ride on the Neva, Fontana and Mayakovsky Rivers was our next adventure. Even though it was about 50 it was very windy. We bundled up in layers, but I was still cold. Luckily the boat had indoor seating. Seeing the buildings from the water level provided a different perspective. The architectural style was all about the same, rather plain and uniform. However, from the outside the Hermitage and Winter Palace were similarly styled, yet on the inside they were indeed magnificent.
The next day, we toured the Yusupov Palace. It was constructed in 1770 was was positioned on the the banks of the Moyka River. From 1830-1917 the house belong to a wealthy family called Yusupov. In December 1916, Felix Yusupov was worried that the mystic Rasputin, a country peasant with psychic powers, had too much influence over Czar Nicholas II. Felix invited Rasputin to his house and shot him. This was the kind of treachery that went on in the courtians who were always struggling to have power and influence over the Czar. Rasputin’s death helped to bring on the Russian revolution.
This house was over the top with elaborate decorations. While it was very plain on the outside, it was quite the opposite on the inside. It amazed me that the house was often used by the czar for parties and various official functions. Felix’s family had a lot of money and used it to decorate lavishly. They even had their own theater made to look like a replica of the famous opera theater of St. Petersburg.
We learned a lot on our two day stay in St. Petersburg. In fact, we wound up getting an extra day. On Wednesday night when we were to leave the port, there were high winds and rough waves. The port was closed and we weren’t allowed to leave until Thursday night. Unfortunately we had to stay aboard the ship. As a result, will be missing our scheduled stop in Gdańsk, Poland on Saturday. Friday we will be in Tallin, Estonia. That’s it for St. Petersburg.